Madeira Wine Company, Malmsey 1897 (two bottles)

The Madeira Wine Company’s Malmsey 1897 is more than just a wine; it is a piece of history, a testament to the craftsmanship of Madeira’s winemakers, and a symbol of the enduring appeal of this extraordinary wine. Whether enjoyed now or preserved for future generations, it remains one of the finest examples of Madeira’s rich winemaking heritage.

Michael Broadbent, a renowned British wine critic and auctioneer at Christie’s, has provided some insightful tasting notes on various vintages of Madeira, including the Malmsey 1897. While Broadbent's notes on specific bottles can vary depending on the time and condition of the wine at tasting, his comments on Madeira, particularly the older Malmsey vintages, offer a valuable perspective on what one might expect from such a historic wine.

Michael Broadbent's Tasting Notes on Malmsey 1897

In his authoritative work, "Vintage Wine: Fifty Years of Tasting Three Centuries of Wines," Michael Broadbent discusses the Malmsey 1897 as an exceptional example of Madeira’s remarkable aging potential. Broadbent often highlighted the following characteristics when describing old Malmsey wines, including the 1897 vintage:

• Color: A deep amber or mahogany hue, often with a greenish rim, which is characteristic of well-aged Madeira.
• Nose: Complex and multi-layered, with aromas of toffee, caramel, dried fruits (particularly figs and dates), and a touch of molasses. Notes of spice, including cinnamon and cloves, as well as hints of smoky wood and old leather, are also common.
• Palate: Rich, viscous, and concentrated, with a sweetness balanced by a lively acidity. Flavors often include a mix of burnt sugar, treacle, dried fruits, nuts (such as walnuts and hazelnuts), and spices. The finish is exceptionally long, lingering with a combination of sweetness and acidity that leaves a clean, refreshing aftertaste.
• Overall Impression: Broadbent praised the remarkable balance and complexity of the Malmsey 1897, often noting that the wine displayed both the richness and the acidity necessary for a long life. Even after more than a century, such wines retain a freshness and vibrancy that defy their age, which is a hallmark of the best Madeira.

Other Wine Writers and Critics

Other prominent wine writers and critics have also offered tasting notes and assessments of the Malmsey 1897. These reviews generally align with Broadbent’s observations and underscore the exceptional quality of this vintage:

• Richard Mayson, an expert on fortified wines, often notes the remarkable depth and complexity of the Malmsey 1897, describing it as a wine of extraordinary richness with a perfect balance of sweetness and acidity. He highlights the long aging process, which contributes to the wine’s deep amber color and intense, concentrated flavors.

• Serena Sutcliffe MW, another leading authority on wine, has praised the Malmsey 1897 for its incredible longevity and evolving complexity. She has noted the wine’s ability to offer new layers of aroma and flavor with each passing year, describing it as a “liquid time capsule.”

• Jancis Robinson MW, though not as frequently focused on Madeira as Broadbent or Mayson, has expressed admiration for the way older Madeira wines, like the Malmsey 1897, manage to maintain their vibrancy and structural integrity over time. Her tasting notes often highlight the wine’s balance of sweetness and acidity, as well as the complex interplay of flavors that develop with extended aging.

Summary

The Malmsey 1897 is universally acclaimed by experts for its outstanding quality and remarkable aging potential. Michael Broadbent's tasting notes, alongside those of other prominent wine critics, paint a picture of a wine that is both a pleasure to drink and a marvel of winemaking. The wine’s rich, complex flavors and ability to age gracefully make it a prized possession for collectors and a benchmark for what Madeira can achieve.